"Are you ready to dance in the chaos?" my toned and tanned instructor from Gone Surfing asked as we picked up our boards, cool to the touch from resting in the shadows of the high-rises standing shoulder to shoulder along Waikiki's man-made beach. I was in Hawaii to participate in the launch of LXR Hotels & Resorts' "Pursuit of Adventure" brand-wide initiative aimed at celebrating the timeless pursuit of personal exploration (you'll be able to read more about that in the September/October issue).

Amped up for the exploits on my itinerary, I arose well before daybreak my first morning, spending time on the 27th-floor balcony of my suite at Ka La'I, LXR Hotels & Resorts(@kalaiwaikikibeachlxr) studying the early bird surfers as they paddled out to the reef break. Once I was down at sea level later that day, I realized that I'd underestimated both the distance and the wave size (swells average between three to eight feet in the summer). Nonetheless, I was thrilled for the opportunity to participate in an activity that has been an integral part of Hawaiian culture since it was introduced by the Polynesians around the 12th century. It's also sport I've been fascinated with for as long as I can remember, recently fueled by devouring every episode of HBO's 100 Foot Wave, leading me to list a winter visit to witness the monster waves at Nazaré, Portugal, at the top of my travel bucket list.

Text: Bridget Cottrell